Table of contents
 | The ER-101 contains sensitive electronics. These electronics are exposed just like they are on a graphics card that you would install in a PC. Therefore when handling the ER-101, you must take proper precautions to not expose it to ESD such as from static electricity. This means keeping your body properly grounded throughout any procedure where your ER-101 is not connected to your case. |
Removing the panel
You will need…
- a 1.5mm allen wrench for the knob’s set screw.
- a 12mm socket wrench for the nut on the encoder bushing. An adjustable wrench is fine for this also.
- an 8mm socket wrench for the jacks. Cover the end of the socket wrench with felt or any similar cloth. The finger-tip of an old glove also works.
Some things to watch out for according to users:
- Be careful with the amber acrylic display lenses. They can be scratched easily by rubbing against components that are attached to the circuit board. (thread)
- Work in a very dust free area, as the displays and lenses tend to attract dust, and it can get caught between the OLEDs and the acrylic when reassembling. Having a tape loop of blue painter’s tape can help grab any dust off the acrylic or displays without putting any tiny scratches in the acrylic lenses. (thread)
Replacing buttons
It is not hard to replace the button caps and internals (spring and upper contact plate). Some reasons for replacing buttons are:
- Customizing the colors.
- Cleaning or replacing corroded contacts.
- Fixing a sticky button.
I find that prying off the button caps is most conveniently done with a 2mm flathead screwdriver. Here is what the process looks like:
| | Inside the button cap is a spring and contact plate. If you are going to re-use them then be careful not to lose the spring (like I did in the video) and take care not to bend the contact plate. |
How to purchase new buttons
The part number for the gray buttons is D6C10-F1-LFS. There are other colors available but make sure you order the square type with 1.3N of actuating force:
Replacing toggle switches
Replacing a toggle switch requires the ability to desolder and solder through-hole components. All of my modules come with long flat toggles (part number: ATE1E-2F3-10-Z) but there is an alternative part with a short round paddle (part number: ATE1E-2M3-10-Z) that can be used as a drop-in replacement.
ATE1E-2F3-10-Z: This is the default toggle with a long flat paddle.
ATE1E-2M3-10-Z: This is an alternative toggle with a shorter round paddle.